Most fry can be treated similarly. For the first few weeks, keep them in a 5 or 10 gallon tank. Include a corner filter with carbon and floss inside to provide filtration and aeration. Use pantyhose (see here for more information) to cover the inlet. Alternatively, use a sponge filter or your regular filter with pantyhose over the inlet. If you can include floss or filter material from an active tank, that is good to provide bacteria. Adding liquid bacteria may help start the filter too. Any filter used should be driven by a light flow of air bubbles to provide aeration and break the surface but not beat the fry to death. If eggs are placed in the tank, light aeration is all that is needed until you start feeding. Do not feed until fry are free swimming. Besides the filter with air, you will also need a heater if the room ever goes below about 75 degrees F or you are raising fry that need warmer temperatures. Set the heater to about 75 degrees F for most fry. Some cichlid and other fry like it in the low 80's degrees F. Check to see what temperature your species of fish fry prefers.

Water, Lids, and Water Depth

Before you add the fry or eggs, fill the tank either with water from a healthy setup tank or start fresh. If you start fresh to lessen chances of bad organisms from a lively tank, heavily aerate the water for at least a few hours and add about 1 Tablespoons per 5-10 gallons salt (either specifically for freshwater fish or marine salt; do not add lots of salt to tanks of fish that do not like salt such as most catfish), dechlorinator, and anything else you desire like bacteria (Stress-Zyme or related products). Cover the tank with plexiglass or glass to keep moisture in and other pets (if any) out. Catfish and labyrinth fry especially will gulp air. If they are in 75 degree F water and gulp 65 degree F air, they could die. Catfish and labyrinth fish should be in shallow water (under 6 inches) for their first few weeks so they can gulp air easily. Most other fish can have up to a foot or more in depth and survive. Most egg-laid fry swim at the surface anyway.

Lighting and Cleaning

It is also a good idea to add lighting above the tank for a few hours after you add food. Both live foods and fry are attracted to light; thus, the fry find the food easier. Newborn fry are tough. Besides the filter and heater, the tank should be empty. This is so that once you start feeding, you can clean the tank. Use a piece of air line tubing or vacuum tubing to vacuum debris off of the bottom every day or two. How often you do this depends on the number and size of fry and the food you are feeding. Any fry accidentally sucked up can be pipetted or sucked back into the tank.

Feeding

One fry food is infusuria bought through the mail, cultured from ponds, or made at home with dry formulas you can buy. It is composed mostly of paramecium (a small animal). A great food for fry is baby brine shrimp. You can buy eggs and hatch them in salt water. Tiny fry cannot eat them until they are a few weeks old while larger fry can eat them right away. Brine Shrimp Direct also sells decapsulated brine shrimp cysts which can be fed to fry without hatching and other products including something called Pearls which is a fry food that is made to move around in the water column to mimic live food. Other live foods of various sizes include microworms, daphnia, cyclops, euglena, and more. Try to provide other foods as well. There are a number of prepared foods on the market: Tetramin for egglaying and live born ish, Liquifry by Interpet, and others. One place that sells Liquifry is That Pet Place at 1-888-THATPET. A number of people have come up with homemade foods too, often including strained egg yolk. Judging the amount to feed is extremely difficult to learn and takes trial and error. It is very easy to either starve the fry or kill them with excess food. Once the fry are large enough that you can see their mouths working, you can provide small pieces of the same things that their parents eat. As the fry grow, feed them more, vacuum the tank more, and provide larger tanks as needed. Once the fry are large enough to live with their parents (without being eaten) and eat their food, they are ready to be considered fish.